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Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season Review

As an admitted acrophobic who isn't fond of cold weather, I have a hard time wrapping my head around the concept of climbing the highest mountain in the world. To me, it seems nothing short of insanity. So when I stumbled upon the Discovery Channel reality show about Russell Brice's 2006 expedition team and their attempt to summit Everest, I was completely enthralled (and horrified)... enough so that I began to seek out books on the subject. The first, and probably best, account of an Everest expedition that I read was Jon Krakauer's "Into Thin Air." This, however was a close second.

In both cases I found myself repeatedly asking "What is wrong with these people!? Are they insane?" Yeah, apparently. But mountain madness has taken a truly dark turn here, where we see the drive to push one's self to physical extremes tainted by mercenary expedition leaders, oversize egos, poor planning, the vicissitudes of nature, and amateurs who are paying their way to the top of the mountain rather than putting in the grueling years of training and preparation that used to be requisite on Everest.

My criticisms are few: first, there are some copy editing errors that are kind of inexcusable for a widely-published book from a major house ("Sharp" instead of "sherpa," "marshall" instead of "martial," some grammar issues, etc.) Second... well, it's hard for this book to match the energy and intensity of Krakauer's since Krakauer's was written by a man actually on an Everest expedition. Both Krakauer and Heil are strong writers, both are elite climbers, both have a unique viewpoint and something new and interesting to bring to the table, but the immediacy of a first-hand account resonated more deeply with me than Heil's expert yet uninvolved perspective. The two are great companion pieces to each other, and I recommend them both. I still can't imagine why anyone would possibly do this to themselves, yet the subject makes for a fascinating-- and harrowing-- read.

Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season Feature

• ISBN13: 9780805089912
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Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season Overview

"A dramatic story, ably and convincingly told . . . A chilling look at the precarious line between success and tragedy."—Kirkus Reviews

On May 15, 2006, a young British climber named David Sharp lay dying near the top of Mount Everest while forty other climbers walked past him on their way to the summit. A week later, Lincoln Hall, a seasoned Australian climber, was left for dead near the same spot. Hall’s death was reported around the world, but the next day he was found alive after spending the night on the upper mountain with no food and no shelter.

If David Sharp’s death was shocking, it was hardly singular: ten others died attempting to reach the summit that year. In this meticulous inquiry into what went wrong, Nick Heil tells the full story of the deadliest year on Everest since the infamous season of 1996. As more climbers attempt the summit each year, Heil shows how increasingly risky expeditions and unscrupulous outfitters threaten to turn Everest into a deadly circus.

Written by an experienced climber, Dark Summit is both a riveting account of a notorious climbing season and a troubling investigation into whether the pursuit of the ultimate mountaineering prize has spiraled out of control.

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Customer Reviews

Reads Like Fiction - Whatsername -
A very gripping account of the 2006 Mt. Everest climbing season and surrounding controversies. I thought this book was every bit as good as Krakauer's "Into Thin Air." Also compares favorably with "Dead Lucky," Lincoln Hall's account of the same events during the 2006 season. It's obvious the author did his research thoroughly, yet the book reads like fiction and is difficult to put down.



dark summit in every way - Outback Aussie - Australia

interesting read
shows the ethics of climbers
all potential climbers should read
what would you do?



Truthsayer - David A. Johnson - Butte, MT United States
A true account.
Very believable and accurate.
I found particularly interesting the section about the death of Thomas Weber, the partially blind climber who died at the foot of the Hillary Step. One of his aiders was Scott Wollums. I met Scott while climbing Mustagata in western China probably a month after the Everest season of 2006. Heil's description of Scott rang true. He was a helpful and direct guide from my experience. Wollums offered aid to Weber, but it was too little, to late. Wollums seemed the type that would not simply walk by a struggling climber, unlike the 40 or so that walked past David Sharp at the Rock Cave.
The book was accurate in other parts as well, and offers an objective and forthright description of the events that left 11 dead, including David Sharp, and a near-dead, Lincoln Hall.




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